"As others have said that is pretty much par for course with grapes let go. The grapes can be quite tasty b-b's, but you want that size they get in the store.
This year I tried some pruning action ("pruning" and "berry…"
"From our experience, Sue, your Thompson's are right on size wise ... larger number of individual grapes seems to equate to smaller sized individuals ...individuals.
You might push their size a bit, up to a 3/8" / 1/2"max by reducing…"
"The blueberry grapevine cutting you gave me is still doing well. I have planted it to a spot where I can finally build and train it to climb a trellis/arbor! I will probably bug you again this year for some fig cuttings since the last round did not…"
"I have no idea how big they should be as this is the first year for me too that they even have grapes, but they are large pea size right now and pretty much ripe. I suspect that it's a Perlette too, even though that's not what we thought…"
"That's what I was afraid of. I was sure they should be much bigger.........hmmmmm. sorry to hear about your grapes, that would be tough to see them looking ready to eat and yet have them not edible. I had skeletonizers…"
"oh mine are pretty big, unfortunately, I have a really bad mildew or fungus problem on the fruit and only the Thompson seedless are affected (I have 2 grapevines that were both labeled Thompson Seedless, but are very different... I suspect the one…"
Thank you very much for the kind & thoughtful comments. I need to get more permaculture into my methods one day, although there may not be too much I can do with this current property--although my drip system is very efficient. I love the chicken house you have built or assembled; very sharp ! :)
Yep, Seeds of Change is my fave! Another trick I do each year is plant 1/2 of a banana peel about 6" below the hole of the tomato plant. I read an article a couple years back in the AZ Republic about this, and my plants have been bigger and better each year. Don't know why it works... maybe something to do with the potassium - :)
Thank you again! Yep, the plants I have bought from HD in previous years didn't do this well either. This is the first year I have started from seed with the 'maters and the results have been really awesome - not to mention cheaper! :) There is a great website I order seeds from that have done extremely well - not to mention they are organic and a farm I love to support - www.seedsofchange.com.
Thanks for the compliment! I started seeds indoors this year, and planted Heirlooms of - Purple Cherokee, Constuluto Genovese - most prolific, and Brown Berry Cherry - of Hybrid's I planted Early Girl, Tumbling Tom Red Cherry, and SunGold Cherry. I had great luck this year - I think due to the shade cloth I used - it kept all of them producing until the beginning of August. I just took them all out to get ready for the fall. If you have any other questions just lemme know :)
RE: Chicken bath
Until they get used to the process, just be prepared to get a shower too Sue. I read that it helps if you put a big rock, concrete block or paving block in the water so they can get a handle on the depth of the "pool." They will fuss at first, but you can see them bliss out once they settle down. Also, make sure the water is lukewarm or not too much cooler than the outside temp -- I think an extreme temperature change may be harmful. This sounds really over the top, but I also read that adding a few drops of organic lavender oil will help to control chicken mites. At least it smells better when they splash the water in you face. Happy bathing. -- Joe
I don't know if I can give you directions, but I can definitely help you with ideas and how to put it all together. Since I built it from scape it would be most likely different from yours or anyone elses. I love to fabricate and have a welder and most tools so if you need help just ask.
oh and I forgot to mention your garden if grown with this method, might look like a jumbled mess, I can almost assure you that wont look like those nice rows you see in most gardens but why waste space when you could have more room for carrots, leafy greens or tomatoes and onions?
and plant that pea or bean as close to the corn sprout as you can with out damaging the lil corn
-native americans used the plant different characteristics to work together.
-First off they mostly grew corn squash beans and peas and I assume watermelon and cantelope, oh and tobacco which grows well here but I am not into that.
corn grows in poles which are perfect for peas and beans to grow up (added bonus: peas release nitrogen from little sacs on their roots and all plants love nitrogen, especially good for areas where your grow corn because corn depleates nutrients in your soil).
Squash is a great ground cover and will keep the ground moist around your corn if planted in between. Basically any vine plant can be a sutible substitute, but cantelope, cucumber and watermelon need more coaching because they have those fingers that help them climb.
so plant your corn and squash a week or so before your peas and beans and then the peas should grow up the corn and the squash should cover the ground (a simbiotic balance) and you don't really have to do much except hand pollinate your corn once you see little patches of corn silk, water your garden, and harvest as the plants produce. and if the peas grow faster than your corn no big deal just add a pole or string and don't worry because they are still recharging your soil with much needed nitrogen.
-also native american used to put a little peice of fish at the bottom of the hole you plant the corn in, wich probably cant hurt (I always forget though)
-and I hear that if you eat corn squash and beans or peas it creates a complex and complete protien, good for those vegetarians out there